RACING / RALLY STRIPES INSTRUCTIONS
Install masking tape "guide" down entire vehicle
|Start in the front of the vehicle, and measure between the
two window washer sprayers and mark off the exact center with a grease
pencil. This is one of the major references for the center of the stripes.
Open the hood and using a screw driver, push in the clips that hold the
washer nozzles to pop them out, then pull off the tubes and pull the nozzles
out from the top of the hood.
Now on the roof mark off the center of the
front of the roof and the back portion right up against the glass.
On the rear of the car mark off the center of the
3rd brake light, and point between the two bottom holes on the license plate
cutout and the point on the TOP side of the spoiler opposite the hole on the
underside of said spoiler (if you still have one).
Also open the trunk and remove the two nuts holding the 3rd brake light
in. Disconnect it and remove it leaving the space. Also take off the license
|Now begin from the front and lay your first piece beginning
on the middle of the Ram's head insert in the bumper, continue it up and
across the hood cutout and EXACTLY across the middle marker you made between
the wash nozzles. If you don't' have straight eyesight, you can also make
marks 1 inch on either side of the center mark to have "railroad tracks" to
lay the tape through, otherwise just center the tape on the center mark.
Also cut the tape at the top and bottom of the trunk so you can open it
|Measure and cut the vinyl stripe to allow a couple inches
overhang on either side. Now to lay the vinyl straight you just have to use
some common sense. I simply butted the dry vinyl still on it's white backing
against the blue tape. Remember from the beginning this assures a 3" spacing
between stripes. So now that the stripe is butted against the middle tape
guide, you can use pieces of tape to mark the OUTER side of the vinyl
You can see this process on the picture on the right, and see i
have placed a single piece of blue tape on the right side of the vinyl to
mark the outside edge. Now repeat this outer marking process a couple times
along to the vinyl so that when you get ready to lay it, you will have a
nice set of guides.
Now spray down the area with the water/soup mixture (NOT febreze). Peel
off a small section of the vinyl and spray down the sticky side. Continue
pulling the vinyl off it's back while spraying it down to prevent it from
sticking to itself. You should end up holding the entire stripe in your
hand. now lay the stripe down on the roof.
||Now place the wet vinyl on the roof against the OUTER tape
pieces. Use the inner piece to guide you visually, but actually butt the
vinyl up against the tape you placed on the outside. Now using your
squeegee, move the water from underneath the vinyl. I started somewhere in
the middle and once I had it lined up, I move the water and it will start to
stick. Now work your way all around until you've moved all the water and
removed any bubbles or wrinkles. if you are getting wrinkles at this stage
you are doing something wrong, either lighten up your touch or put more
Work all the way up to the plastic sealant for the front/rear
windows. Use the hard side of the squeegee to press the vinyl firmly against
the edge, then using a razor cut the excess. I tried putting the vinyl under
the sealant, but it just ended up wrinkling the vinyl, so I simply butted it
against the edge...but it's your choice.
Now finish by using a hair dryer to heat the the stripe. Especially hit
the edges to prevent lifting. If you get the vinyl to hot, if you try and
move it around it will distort or rip, so be careful.
You should end up looking like this after applying stripes to the roof.
|Okay, first off make sure you removed the washer nozzles as
described earlier. Now you simply repeat the same basic steps as the roof to
put on the stripes. Now I went with the "Fangs" look, so it's actually a bit
easier than the complete front stripe look. I simply put some paper up on
the hood and traced out the contour of the hood scoop to create the inner
line of the "fang". Then I just freehanded the rest and ended up with a
template. The secret now is to lay the two stripes of vinyl on top of each
other with one piece reversed, then use the paper pattern to cut out both
stripes at once using a razor or scissors. Laying it is easy as the roof,
just be careful with the small fangs portion to not get it wrinkled or
|Curl the top edge under the hood and use the hair dryer to
insure it's nice and dry. Now to tackle the washer holes simply hit the area
with the dryer until it starts to make an indentation. Use a razor to cut a
"+" into the vinyl that's covering the hole. Then use your finger to
press the vinyl down into the hole and insure there aren't any wrinkled on
the surface around the hole. Once it's as good as you can get it, reinsert
the washer nozzles, snapping firmly into place. Reattach the lines and use
the squeegee to remove any wrinkles that may have occurred.
Use the dryer
on the edges of the fangs especially and then give it all a once over to
make sure it's all nice and tight. if you wanted the regular stripes to
continue down through the grill, then simply cut small pieces and continue
the process all the way down, simply rolling the edges behind the grill to
|The rear portion is the hardest, and best saved for last.
Remember we removed the 3rd brake light, and now it'll payoff for sure.
Start by measuring from the window to the middle of the hole left by the
brake light. Here is where I cheated and spliced the stripes instead of
molding them around this compound contour.
If you are talented and patient you might be able to do this part in one
continuous strip, but I could not so I had to cut. It's barely noticeable in
normal light, and even then nobody will care. But if that's not enough, be
my guest and pay someone to do it for you, I'm sure it won't cost more then
a couple hundred :)
|You can see on the right how the right stripe ends in the
middle of the 3rd brake light. This line will give the least noticeable in
my opinion. Use a razor to cut the excess from the hole and leave a bit
extra to fold down into the hole. Hit this part with the hair dryer
You can see how the bottom stripe is layered on top of the other
stripe. This line is barely noticeable and actually runs with the body lines
of the trunk.
Continue installing vinyl over the trunk area.
||For the spoiler I looked underneath it and there is a hole
that I used as the center point. Install the vinyl as normal but be ready to
put the seam on the bottom side. Then use your hands to pull the wrinkles
smooth. It may take a lot of pulling, and I recommend you smooth out the
center portion and then grab the two corners and pull tight until the
wrinkles are almost gone. Then use the squeegee to work them out.
|Now we finally come to the hardest part next to the above
mentioned 3rd brake light compound curve area. If you were able to do that
section without cutting and butting two pieces against each other, then stop
reading here and just finish it all up...otherwise read on.
there was no way I was going to attempt to fill the license plate area, so I
resigned myself to laying the stripes as shown to the right. The piece above
the license went on with a bit of struggling on the outside compound curve,
but with some hair dryer and squeegee action it finally worked out with no
wrinkles and straight.
The bottom was tougher to get, especially as it curves underneath the
car. Once that was on, i used a razor blade to cut the "U" into the stripes
for the license opening. Here you can do what I did, and grit your teeth and
cut the vinyl by pressing the razor blade ever-so-slightly against the vinyl
and through to the clear-coat. Cutting lightly so as not to cut into the
paint. I actually succeeded and only ended up with very small scratch mark
right on the edge of the indention to the license. If you're worried, then
you could make a mock-up and cut out the piece with scissors.